Archive for the ‘Coil Cleaning’ category

Legionnaires Disease Kills Man In UK: Limescale Buildup Probable Cause

August 11th, 2011

Just a quick post on this one. Ran across it today, but the mans death occurred last year.

In an online article on the GetReading.co.uk website there’s a story about a man who, authorities say died from Legionnaires disease contracted in his home. Seems as though the man died from Legionnaires disease caused by Legionnela bacteria that occurred when limescale deposits in his residential water system allowed water to stand and bacteria growth to form.

Legionella has long been an issue in the HVAC trade. Any place that moisture can build up can cause bacteria to grow and legionella is one of those. However, it tends to be more discussed in industrial/commercial HVAC systems and rarely (if ever) discussed as being caused by residential hot water heater system.

Now, the details are a bit sketchy, but it’s scary. The findings of an inquest identified that limescale deposits in the water system (heater, shower heads etc) allowed water to “pool” when the fixtures weren’t in use. This pooling allowed bacteria to grow and that’s how it infected this man.

You can read the article here.

If this is true (and the facts seem to support it), it makes maintaining your hot water system and eliminating lime scale buildup even more crucial.

What are your thoughts? Ever hear of this before?

Maintaining a Walk-in Cooler/Freezer

August 9th, 2011

The restaurant walk-in cooler is a workhorse that can limp along for years without much complaining. But regular maintenance makes it far more reliable, keeping inventory safe and reducing energy costs. With observation and corrective action, walk-in coolers can serve your restaurant clients long and well.

By N-Lange.de (Own work) [GFDL (www.gnu.org/copyleft/fdl.html) or CC-BY-SA-3.0-2.5-2.0-1.0 (www.creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0)], via Wikimedia CommonsThe following issues signal it’s time for them to call a service technician.

Ice Buildup
Over time, ice can build up on the cooling coils. A properly functioning evaporator regularly defrosts, melting the ice and draining it away. But on older units the ice may not melt completely. When a coil becomes covered in ice, heat transfer plummets, and the compressor has to work harder and longer. If ice buildup is excessive the compressor runs constantly, but the unit still can’t maintain temperature.

Trapped Moisture

During a properly functioning cooling cycle, ice will form in your freezer, then melt and drain away. Sometimes a blockage prevents the water from draining. Trapped water can seep into cracks, then refreeze and expand, causing structural damage. Stalactites and stalagmites of ice in a freezer are a signal for swift action to avoid costly damage.

Inadequate Ventilation
The condenser coil removes heat from the refrigeration system. When the condenser is located in an enclosed or cramped space, it may not have sufficient air flow to efficiently remove heat. This leads to a higher temperature around the compressor, requiring it to work harder.

A condenser needs a well ventilated area to do its job. If it has to be kept in an enclosed space, use a fan to move additional air through the area to aid cooling. Directing exhaust directly outside also reduces ambient heat.

Check condenser coils regularly for dust and debris – these insulate the coil, reducing the heat transfer and airflow, causing the compressor to run harder and longer.

Leaks and Overcrowding
Inspect the refrigerator shell regularly for leaks which can lead to excess moisture in the system. Make sure doors seal properly to keep out moisture and warm air. Watch for frost buildup on doors, which can keep them from closing, or possibly freeze them shut. Also avoid overcrowding, which leads to poor air circulation. If the contents of the fridge block evaporator fans, the unit won’t perform at peak levels.

Regular maintenance solves problems before they become destructive, and it keeps energy bills from skyrocketing.

Find a helpful Walk-In Cooler/Freezer Diagnostic Protocol on the Contracting Business website and if you have any other tips, let us know in the comments.

AC Condenser Cleaning

June 28th, 2011

Arguably the most effective step in maintaining a residential AC unit is cleaning the outdoor condenser unit. It prolongs the life of the equipment and gives residents more bang from their cooling buck. But ineffective cleaning can actually cause problems, packing dirt and debris into the unit, and damaging those all-important fins.

Remember these tips for effective AC condenser coil cleaning:

  • Clean coils from the inside as well as the outside. Directing water into the unit can actually pack debris deeper into the coils. It’s important to first direct your water spray against the direction of air flow through the coil. This pushes the dirt back out the way it came in. Then hot the outside with a rinse off.
  • Beware of pressure washers. You can make a real mess of fins with a pressure washer. The fins on many coils bend at about 140 psi – most pressure washers push out a minimum of 600 psi and some go into the thousands. More isn’t always better.

SpeedClean’s Condenser Needle makes it easy to clean a condenser unit the right way. Its narrow, low profile and high-grade aluminum wand fits easily through small or slanted openings at the top of the condenser grate. Most of the time you won’t even need to remove the grate and fan unit! The unique 90-degree spray pattern effectively blasts dirt directly out of the unit without damaging the fins, and it minimizes the risk of electrical trips and shorts. You can easily clean a 5 to 10 ton unit in as little as 5 minutes.

The Condenser Needle is lightweight and portable. It attaches quickly to any standard water hose, giving you up to 3 gallons a minute of effective, directed cleaning power. It comes with everything you need to get started – 36” wand with connector, spray gun garden hose connector with flow back control, adjustable chemical injection hose (for optional use of SpeedyFoam® biodegradable coil cleaning solution) and instructions.

The Condenser Needle is also ideal for rooftop condenser units and refrigerated vehicle units, where portability is essential.

How many AC condensers do you clean every summer? Have any tips to share?

Up on the Rooftop – RTU Maintenance Checklist

June 22nd, 2011

Regular maintenance is particularly important for rooftop AC units – their remote location makes it harder to see and hear the signals that it’s time for a service call. Here are some universal tips for keeping rooftop units in peak operating condition:

Shut off all electrical power to the unit and tag the disconnect before beginning service. Sounds basic, but I had to include this – it’s your most important step.

CoilJet is perfect for rooftop AC unit coils

CoilJet is perfect for rooftop AC unit coils

Inspect air filters and inlet screens. Clean or replace filters at the start of each cooling and heating season, at a minimum. Clean outdoor air inlet screens annually.

Inspect fan, housing and motor. Make sure fans are properly centered in their housing. Check blades for excessive rusting and for the chips, cracks and dirt buildup that cause noise and vibration. If motor bearings are not permanently lubricated, lubricate them every six months.

Inspect belts for wear, proper tension and pulley alignment. Fan belts are a regular wear and tear item and should be replaced annually.

Inspect the heat exchanger. If the heat exchanger rusts or cracks, gases could contaminate the building’s air supply. Inspect burners, igniter, and combustion section (gas heat only). Popping, roaring noises, smoking, vibration, and flame rollout indicate ignition problems. Check the gas pressure and test for leaks.

Clean the coils. Dirty coils diminish heat transfer and increase operating temperatures and pressures. Wash and flush both sides of the coils. For best results, back flush toward the return-air section to remove foreign material. Be careful not to overwhelm the condensate pan.

Clean drainage. Clogged drain channels prevent water and other liquids from effectively moving out of the unit which can in time cause damage to the unit and surrounding area.

Check the refrigerant charge. Before checking, run the unit for 15 minutes in the cooling mode to stabilize system pressure. If a substantial adjustment is indicated, check for refrigerant leaks or insufficient airflow across the coils.

Check for voltage imbalances. The Department of Energy recommends that voltage imbalances not exceed 1% – a greater imbalance can contribute to overheating and premature motor failure. Also check for loose wiring and connections, and corroded or frayed wires.

Conduct an amperage check. A high amperage draw could signal a mechanical problem, like worn bearings or worn rods, or it could indicate a refrigeration problem.

When you’re done, make sure all panels are fastened securely in place. Keep a bag of screws on hand to replace missing ones – use oversized screws for stripped holes.

Got any other tips? Leave us a comment.

Win a brand new Bucket Descaler

June 1st, 2011

BucketDescaler makes eliminating limescale from tankless heaters a breeze.

Ever have a tough job with limescale? Tankless heaters getting clogged up. I want your story and you could win a new Bucket Descaler limescale remover system. Just submit a comment with your story and the best one wins! Decision will be made in the next few weeks so start posting!

PLEASE NOTE: this contest is no longer active.